This article is part of FT Globetrotters guide to London, highlighting the significance of local cafs that embody community spirit and comfort. In a city known for its bustling lifestyle, having a reliable local caf is essential. Such a place serves as a refuge to cure a hangover, enjoy a good cup of coffee, read a book, or catch up with friends. A perfect caf isnt overly fancy, maintains reasonable prices, and provides a pleasant atmosphere with some tunes in the background. However, the most crucial aspect is the ambiance that defines a classic greasy spoon or 'caff'a uniquely British establishment characterized by affordability, community bonding, and delicious fried goods. One gem that embodies all these traits is Marios Caf.

Located on a charming side street just off Kentish Town Road in north-west London, Marios Caf has become a beloved neighborhood staple for locals seeking a warm atmosphere and delectable yet affordable breakfast and lunch options. The cafs cozy environment, featuring just eight small tables, allows for intimate dining experiences and maintains a sense of familiarity among its patrons. The menu boasts breakfast classics such as the full English fry-up, eggs on toast (offered in various styles: scrambled, poached, royal, Florentine, and Benedict), as well as healthier choices like muesli. For lunch, visitors can indulge in traditional Italian dishes, including bolognese, lasagne, and an array of pasta options.

The heart and soul of Marios is undoubtedly its owner, Mario Saggese, a 56-year-old who wears multiple hats as the owner, host, barista, server, and chef. His passion for interaction shines through as he circulates among customers, sharing friendly conversation, serving up coffee, and delivering plates of food with an infectious warmth that keeps patrons coming back. Saggese proudly remarks that he has cultivated a dedicated group of around 35 regulars, whom he affectionately refers to as his second family. Theyve become part of the furniture, he shares, explaining how their camaraderie creates a welcoming environment that newcomers quickly gravitate toward. This sense of community is something Saggese believes even resonates with the lyrics of the British band Saint Etienne in their 1993 song Marios Caf.

Dropping by on a recent Saturday, I found the caf buzzing with a diverse crowd: a family enjoying their breakfast, a couple of young adults eagerly awaiting their meals, and several individuals, myself included, relishing the serenity of dining alone. Mario soon served me his renowned fry-up, a hearty plate featuring crispy bacon, savory sausages, perfectly cooked eggs, juicy tomatoes, beans, toast, and a side of chips. The simplicity of this dish, coupled with a noticeable quality of ingredients, sets Marios apart from typical greasy spoons. The ingredients have to be fresh, he insists, emphasizing his disdain for frozen sausages. Growing up indulging in bacon sandwiches in local caffs, he developed a deep-seated love for the English breakfast and insists that proper preparation is key.

Interestingly, Marios Caf wasnt always known by its current name. Initially, it was called Tonys, named after Saggese's father. The familys culinary journey began in 1958 when Saggeses grandfather, also named Mario, opened Tonys Restaurant. However, the caf faced financial woes, leading to a temporary closure and a brief stint as a Chinese restaurant before Tony reopened it in 1989, once again naming it after his son, Mario.

Mario took over the caf in the mid-1990s after his father suffered a heart attack, marking the start of his journey as the owner. In his early twenties, he initially resisted working at the caf, but over time, he embraced the role. I kind of did what I do naturally, which is talk, he reflects, and by 1994, he found himself fully immersed in running the establishment. His childhood memories of visiting Italian social clubs with his father, where the community gathered to relax, socialize, and play cards, inspired him to create a similar environment at Mariosa place where people could savor coffee and enjoy conversation.

Today, Marios Caf resonates with the sounds of laughter and chatter, embodying the spirit of community Saggese cherishes. Regulars like Barry Man, who has frequented the caf since its second day of operation 36 years ago, speak fondly of their experiences. All of my kids have been brought up in Marios, Man shares, nostalgic about the memories created there. Another loyal customer, Phil Thops, echoed similar sentiments, mentioning that after his first visit, it just felt like homeso much so that he and his family moved closer to Marios a few years back.

As lunchtime rolled around, Saggese delighted me with one of his signature dishes: spicy sausage pasta topped with a rich, creamy tomato sauce, paired with a flavorful chicken, potato, and bean tray bake recommended by Thops. Each bite was a testament to the homely Italian cooking Saggese has perfected, often drawing inspiration from the culinary practices of his family. The cafs offerings include a variety of comfort foods, such as sausage and fennel casserole, showcasing the depth of Saggese's culinary repertoire.

Interestingly, over the past five years, Saggese has noticed an influx of younger patrons discovering Marios Caf. He attributes this trend to a growing desire for genuine community spaces, contrasting with the impersonal nature of coffee chains and overpriced trendy cafs. People do need places like this a lot more now, he states, highlighting the importance of gathering spots where patrons know they will be greeted warmly. As I chatted with Thops about his weekly visits, he simply smiled and said, Mario, when asked what keeps him coming back, a testament to the connection fostered within these caf walls.

Marios Caf is located at 6 Kelly Street, London NW1 8PH, and is open from 8 am to 4 pm, Wednesday to Saturday. For more information, visit their website or check directions for your next visit.

This article is a part of a new series dedicated to highlighting local gemsthose understated neighborhood restaurants that offer excellent, reasonably priced food while fostering a true sense of community. Do you have a favorite local treasure? We invite you to share your experiences in the comments!

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