From Lottery Winner to Culinary Entrepreneur: Ivan Leong's Journey with Char Siu Lang
Ivan Leong, a passionate culinary entrepreneur, operates the renowned Cantonese roast pork stall Char Siu Lang, which boasts two bustling outlets in Singapore. Once an insurance agent, Leong's career trajectory took a dramatic turn after a fortuitous lottery win changed his life forever.
At just 37 years old, Leong reflects on his past life, where he wore crisp dress shirts, indulged in coffee meetings, and enjoyed the benefits of a flexible work schedule. However, a decade later, he finds himself behind the counter of his own food stall, skillfully carving juicy slabs of roast porkan occupation that starkly contrasts his former corporate life.
Leong's journey into the culinary world began in 2013, when he was working as an administrative assistant at a recruitment firm. Describing his corporate role as "stagnant," he was persuaded by colleagues to join in purchasing lottery tickets. To his astonishment, a ticket he bought for SG$10 won him a staggering SG$1 million. This unexpected windfall motivated him to resign from his job, and shortly thereafter, he submitted his one-month notice.
With his newfound wealth, Leong's first significant investment was securing a government-subsidized apartment with his fianc. However, despite the million-dollar prize, he quickly realized that living comfortably in Singaporeone of the most expensive cities globallywas a challenging feat. Honestly, 1 million is never enough, especially in Singapore, Leong expressed, underscoring the high cost of living on the tiny island.
After dabbling in the insurance sector for a couple of years, Leong felt a compelling desire to become his own boss. In Singapore, if you start an F&B business, you can be a boss straight away. It's the fastest way, he chuckled, reminiscing about his decision to pivot toward the food and beverage industry. As a child, he had always nurtured a love for cooking, particularly during festive occasions like the Lunar New Year.
To hone his skills, Leong worked at a friends roast pork shop located in the Ang Mo Kio neighborhood of Singapore. By 2018, he and his wife had successfully opened their own char siu stall in Bukit Merah, a residential area in southern Singapore. In the subsequent years, he closed the original outlet and expanded by opening two additional locationsone in Woodlands and another in Ang Mo Kio.
Today, Leong dedicates 11 to 12 hours each day to his craft. His routine begins early; he arrives at his stall by 7 a.m. to prepare for the lunchtime crowd, often not leaving until after 6 p.m. The hustle is demanding but ingrained in his work ethic.
Leong's Char Siu Lang stands out in a crowded market due to his commitment to quality. He noted that many char siu dishes in other restaurants are often laden with artificial food coloring, and he wanted to provide his customers with a more authentic experience. He also allows patrons to select the specific type of pork they desire from three options: fatty, lean, or half-fat.
According to Leong, crafting the perfect char siu involves a meticulous roasting process that can take up to two hours in a charcoal oven, far longer than the typical 45 minutes. On an average day, he generates around SG$1,500 from each outlet, which translates to selling five slabs of roast pork, 60 to 80 strips of char siu, and approximately seven whole chickens.
During a recent visit to his stall, I indulged in the SG$8 trio dish, which allowed me to sample all three types of meat. This dish consisted of flavorful chicken and two varieties of pork served over fragrant rice, accompanied by fresh cucumbers and a warm bowl of soup. The crispy crackling pork skin, coupled with the tender meat beneath, offered a delightful contrast in texture.
The char siu was exquisitely tender and coated in a sticky glaze that complemented the aromatic rice perfectly, while the roasted chicken added a lighter touch to the meal. I was pleasantly surprised by the clear soup; it provided a comforting warmth with boiled slices of vegetables at the bottom, enhancing the overall dining experience.
Many of Leong's regulars have expressed their appreciation for his unique offerings. Eddie Soh, a 36-year-old IT product manager, has been a loyal customer since 2019, claiming that Leong "raised the bar" for char siu. Soh revealed that Leong's roast pork has become integral to his family's Lunar New Year celebrations, where he often orders significant quantities for gatherings.
Another devoted patron, Andrew Ong, a 49-year-old officer with the Singapore Armed Forces, discovered Leong's stall last year and has been a frequent visitor, enjoying the food about three times a week. He praised the sides, particularly the rice and jammy eggs, which notably differ from the standard hard-boiled eggs typically served with char siu.
Leong's stall has garnered significant acclaim, including praise from local food publication Sethlui.com, which described the pork as caramelized to perfection in a review dated July.
Despite the success of Char Siu Lang, Leong acknowledges the challenges inherent in running a small hawker stall in Singaporea place renowned for its vibrant food culture, even featuring some establishments listed in the Michelin Guide. Leong's transition from a corporate lifestyle to the demanding environment of a food stall was not without difficulties. He has had to adapt his time management and personal presentation considerably.
Reflecting on the differences, he remarked, When I was doing financial advisory, I dressed up, used perfume, and wore all the brands. But in the shop, I just wear whatever is comfortablemaybe a pair of shorts, my company T-shirt, and I need to wear safety boots. The flexibility of his previous job allowed him to reschedule client meetings easily, while the rigorous routine of reaching his stall at 7 a.m. each day requires discipline and commitment.
Looking toward the future of his business, Leong expressed aspirations beyond merely tending the stall. My endgame is to sell the business to big organizations, he stated. He acknowledges that sustaining the demanding hours of operation over the long term is not feasible. However, a return to the corporate world is off the table for him. He wishes to venture into new business opportunities that allow for greater independence, stating, I would love to not only spend my time in the store. I really need to take a step back because I really feel like I spend too much time in this business.