Hearty cuisine hailing from the land that birthed Kalo, mariachi and mezcal is honoured in an unpretentious and loving way with the crew at Taco Maria in Kalamunda. Talavera crosses on the walls, a big old cyan brick backed bar and tequila bottles both full and empty stacked to the rafters; get behind me, clinical and trendy Mexican restaurant decor! The vibes at Taco Maria are warm and homely upon entry. It’s the kind of place families should feel welcome and those with fewer responsibilities can let the agave-derived liquor flow in a relaxed setting. Admittedly it could do with a little sprucing in parts, but just a touch; it would be a total shame to lose the charm. Our waiter is upfront but polite in gently implying we embrace the QR-code scanning order method during a brief trot through to a relatively full dining area. Embracing the newfangled tech reveals a menu that is extensive but not overwhelming, bearing all the beloved modernised Mexican staples one would hope to see. Burritos, tacos, tostadas, nachos and a drinks list stacked with tequilas of all persuasions. And Mexican beers too. I go the old fashioned way when it comes to the actual ordering and head to the well-stocked bar. Camera Icon The crosses and ornaments at Taco Maria are fantastic. Credit: Simone Grogan The drink is a margarita ($16) — simple, refreshing, and with a generous measure of tequila, lip-puckeringly good. I prefer mine with another few millilitres or so of lime and more salt on the rim. Clearly accustomed to the “order more and share” approach menus are geared towards these days, we soon realise that good portions refreshingly come as standard at Taco Maria. Back at the table, colourful dishes start flying out efficiently and in good time. Sebastians Chorizo Quesadilla ($20) is mercifully not overloaded with some dreadful oily cheese. Instead, a sharp and well sprinkled measure of four cheese mix allows a layer of ground chorizo to have its moment. The filling is well-spread throughout; it’s a good thickness, savoury and nicely spicy, all drenched in sour cream and a mild creamy enchilada style sauce. A tasty start. The Tostadas Maria ($23) pair are a really fun and unique starting bite that make fabulous use of the humble black bean. A sweet and smokey mix of the Mexican staple and sweetcorn sits inside two thin tortilla bowls that have been fried to perfection, a clean and nearly flaky snap adds an enjoyable textural contrast to the hearty mole inside. Camera Icon Taco Maria’s tostadas, a great little dish. Credit: Simone Grogan A rogue crumbed jalapeno popper atop each tostada has succumbed to a worse fate however and is a little over-fried. The jalapeno is the first bit of hefty heat I’ve come across, but no complaints about that. The Tex’s Beef Birria Tacos are ($25) show there’s depth to the cooking at Taco Maria. There is a light web of melted four-cheese mix stuck to the edges of two flour tortillas that sandwich a juicy and lovingly cooked beef brisket-esque filling. It’s been shredded generously throughout. Like most of the food, this one is also a knife and fork job, principally to get stuck into submerging the tacos into the accompanying consome. The crimson concoction is something like a passata but less on the sweet, and more on the hearty, chilli and red pepper aromatics. Again the spice level is fairly tame, but noticeable enough to keep things lively. Controversially, I’m a little let down by the House Guacamole ($17), just given how solid everything has been so far. Camera Icon Taco Maria’s ultra-flavoursome birria, quesadilla and guacamole. Credit: Simone Grogan It’s certainly enjoyable and will quell any desire for the classic pairing. The avocado is nice and fresh, and comes with a decent chip to dip ratio. Really no problem, it’s just a touch too smooth and over-seasoned for my liking. Less spices and more zest would have done the trick. The use of fresh garnish on all of these dishes is really appreciated. Mexican can often be rich and relentless, so the sweet and nicely chopped tomatoes, coriander and spring onion is a lovely, fresh and considered flavour variation and textural break. It’s truly thrilling to see the 16-hour Chipotle Cacao Beef Burrito ($30) — ordered saucy style — arrive. The thing must weigh half a kilo and is absolutely steeped in sour cream, queso sauce, cheese, a helping of guacamole, tomato and red onion salsa and an utterly luxe helping of the beef ladled across the top. The little chunks of more fall-apart meat are smoky, rich and chocolatey to taste. It’s a great flavour choice to advance the dish. A generous helping of a perfectly-cooked Mexican rice and kidney beans is tightly packed with a wonderfully springy tortilla. Spicy rice, rich beef, tangy sour cream, sharp cheese — with so many ingredients going in so many different directions every bite is different. Positively joyous eating. The Crispy Local Fish Taco ($12) is a good size and the flour tortilla has been left on the grill just long enough to crisp up a touch. Camera Icon Taco Maria’s ultra-flavoursome birria, quesadilla and guacamole. Credit: Simone Grogan A crunchy cabbage slaw is simple and fresh and chopped to an ideal size. The fish itself is a little on the thin side and has been crumbed and not battered, which was a bit unexpected but really grew on me in the end. The baja sauce is really wonderful; sharp, a bit tart, bright in flavour with a lovely chipotle hum. Pleasingly the guacamole served with the prawn tacos is a a bit more rustic; I would have much preferred this one with the earlier-mentioned corn chips. There’s a decent lot of crumbed fried prawns to fill the taco and guarantee each bite is a full one. Maria’s Ultimate Banana Split for Two ($23) is the recommended dessert per the chalkboard at the restaurant’s entrance. The fried banana is glorious, golden and sweet and works marvellously with an oozy dark chocolate sauce. Camera Icon Golden banana goodness at Taco Maria. Credit: Simone Grogan The churro has unfortunately had a bit of oil seepage, but is still ultimately deep frying in dessert form — hard to be disappointed. Pepitas are an inspired addition. A fun high to end the night. The verdict: 16/20 An attentive local champion honouring the fun and heart of Mexican food with fair portions, prices in an approachable and friendly setting. Muy bien! Taco Maria 18 Mead St, Kalamunda WA 6076 Open: Wednesday to Saturday, 5pm – 9pm on weeknights and 5pm - 10pm weekends Contact: 9293 3337 or tacomaria@westnet.com.au Bookings: Yes