But diners with deep pockets and a willingness to loot them buy any chef freedom. Brown has various lunch offerings from £50-a-head, while supper is 10 courses for £125. Of these, only one — bass rolled in leeks with a stuffing of roast chicken — is a main course. The others are neat demonstrations of culinary aptitude. Showing off? Sure. The thing with Brown is, showing off suits him, he’s good at it. His creativity is commercially attuned: ideas he pioneered, like crumpets topped with seafood, are now on menus across the country, and at least three supermarkets have ripped off his fish Kyiv idea. There are kids growing up thinking it’s a classic.