The train rattled across the estuary, where pockets of golden marshland floated on a wide stretch of water framed by misty mountains in the distance. Sunlight broke through the clouds and lit up the valley ahead. As we climbed, the open landscape gave way to thick woodland, with trees lining the track and branches nearly brushing the observation-style windows. From the view outside, I could have been on a train through the Alps. But this is Wales, and it is every bit as beautiful. Here’s why you should hop on the Ffestiniog Railway and soak up jaw-dropping views that could give Switzerland a run for its money. The Ffestiniog Railway is the world’s oldest narrow-gauge railway with almost 200 years of history, taking passengers on a 13½-mile journey from the pretty harbour in Porthmadog to the slate-quarrying town of Blaenau Ffestiniog. Their historic trains climb over 700 feet from sea level into the mountains through dense forests, past lakes and waterfalls and around tight corners while hugging the rocky peaks or tunnelling right through them. There are several routes you can take on their award-winning railways, including the Gelert Explorer, which runs from Caernarfon to Beddgelert and back; The Harbourmaster, running from Porthmadog and Caernarfon and back; and Woodland Wanderer, which begins at Porthmadog and will take you to Tan-y-Bwlch and back. I opted for the swish Gold Service on the three-hour service The Mountain Spirit, the flagship experience of the Ffestiniog Railway. If riding the rails in Wales, I want to travel in Orient Express-style splendour. From superstar gigs to cosy pubs, find out What’s On in Wales by signing up to our newsletter here The journey begins in Porthmadog, a charming harbour town in Gwynedd that was once a thriving port. Shipments of slate from Porthmadog in the first half of the 19th Century peaked in 1849 at 142,080 tonnes that year. Today, it's a holiday hotspot, drawing thousands of visitors who come for railway rides, proper pubs and Blackrock Sands. From the Ffestiniog Railway, the Mountain Spirit usually heads out to the former slate mining centre, Blaenau Ffestiniog, twice daily, a morning ride and another in the afternoon. Your mighty ride for the day? One of Ffestiniog’s iconic Double Fairlie locomotives — quirky, double-ended engines designed 150 years ago to muscle their way up the steep hills and tight bends of Eryri. Each was hand-built at the historic Boston Lodge works: Merddin Emrys from 1879, David Lloyd George from 1992, and the gleaming new James Spooner, fresh on the rails from late 2023. After steaming up to Blaenau Ffestiniog, you’ll have a short time to stretch your legs, snap photos, and grab a coffee and a cake. The town centre’s just a five-minute stroll from the station, with a few cafés and shops nearby. There’s also a station shop where you can pick up light bites and souvenirs or pre-order snacks when booking to keep you fuelled for the journey back. For my trip, I decided to go all out and book the Gold Service, and honestly, it was the best decision I could’ve made. I travelled in the First Class Pullman carriages, which feel timeless in style and quality. Hand-built and beautifully finished at the railway’s Boston Lodge workshops, these carriages are the last word in old-school luxury and give total Murder on the Orient Express vibes. Sinking into a plush armchair with polished wooden tables, I instantly felt like I’d entered a more glamorous age of rail travel. If you want the ultimate view, you can book seats at the Observation Bay at the very end of the train. (I highly recommend splurging on this for the best view and enviable photos.) With free-standing chairs facing straight out the back, the scenery unfolds as you chug along, revealing dense woodlands and expansive reservoirs. This heritage journey is about the constant change of scenery as you slowly chug towards Blaenau. We rolled across the Cob embankment with water glittering on both sides, then climbed steadily into green valleys dotted with cottages and floofy sheep. It felt like we’d been whisked straight into the Swiss Alps. For a moment, I half-expected a yodeler to pop up on the hills. But no, this is Wales, and it’s equally magnificent. The higher we went, the thicker the woods became, wrapping around the train in a blur of mossy trees. After the pretty station at Tan-y-Bwlch, the landscape opened up, and suddenly, we were clinging to the valley walls, spiralling up at Dduallt, and bursting out of a tunnel into a whole new scene, the glassy sweep of Llyn Ystradau reservoir, the rugged slate tips of Blaenau looming ahead. Every twist and turn brings new views, and with the Traveller’s Guide, complete with an easy-to-follow map, you can track the whole adventure without missing a moment. Before I knew it, we were pulling into Blaenau Ffestiniog, a small and proud Welsh town wrapped in slate and history. Here, the train pauses for around 50 minutes, giving you enough time to hop off, stretch your legs, and get lunch if you're hungry. I wandered down the platform, taking the chance to admire our incredible locomotive up close properly. Seeing all the moving parts, the gleaming paintwork, and the sheer craftsmanship made me appreciate the journey even more. The town centre is just a five-minute walk from the station if you want to explore. A few cosy cafés and small shops are nearby, perfect for grabbing a quick coffee or a bite to eat. The on-board stewards are utterly brilliant; they’re on hand to sell guidebooks, share local legends, and point out must-see spots along the route. In moments like this, you realise how lucky we are in Wales; you don’t have to jump on a plane to find mountains, lakes, forests, and epic views. They’re right on our doorstep, and there's no better way to see them than from the comfy seat of a heritage train as it carves its way through picture-perfect scenery. If you’re travelling First Class (lucky you), there’s an at-seat refreshment service, perfect for tea and treats while you soak up the dreamy views. I recommend going for the 'Welsh steam Ale' by local brewers Purple Moose. Standard class passengers can grab something from the station outlets before hopping on board. Either way, nothing pairs better with mountain views than a good cup of tea and a Welsh cake. Your ticket includes your return journey, but if you’re planning something more flexible, one-way tickets are sometimes available on the day, depending on availability. Travelling with Transport for Wales? You can reserve a connecting seat by calling the booking office at 01766 516024. Remember: Unless you’ve booked two separate singles, you’ll be returning on the same train you came up on, so there will be no sneaky extra shopping trips or coffee stops. Book your rail adventure here .