The Delicious Artistry of High-Jewellery: A Feast for the Eyes

Roula Khalaf, the esteemed Editor of the Financial Times, shares her curated selection of intriguing stories in her weekly newsletter. Among the highlights this week is the remarkable legacy of Jean Schlumberger, the renowned jewelry designer born in Alsace, France. Schlumberger was not only celebrated for his exquisite creations for Tiffany & Co., but also for his exceptional culinary skills. In fact, in 1965, he delighted Vogue readers by sharing his delicious recipes, including Pigeons Crapaudine, a traditional dish, and Poulet Bongard, a fried chicken delicacy. This unique blend of culinary and artistic talent is reflected in his jewelry designs, which often feature sumptuous and vibrant gems crafted in settings so delicate they resemble filo pastry.
The current season's high-jewellery collections resonate with Schlumberger's imaginative spirit, as various jewelry houses incorporate appetizing gems into their designs, creating pieces that are not just beautiful but also whimsical. For instance, Cartier's latest necklace from the third chapter of its Nature Sauvage collection draws inspiration from the natural world, emulating the intricate structure of honeycomb. The piece features a delightful array of yellow and white diamonds, evocative of dripping honey, while a striking 2.64-carat fancy intense yellow diamond stands out as a playful representation of a bee.
Meanwhile, the luxurious offerings from Lugano present a stunning necklace made from rose and white gold, adorned with quartz, diamonds, and candy-pink conch pearls. This piece is so visually enticing that it resembles a plate of exquisite almond-paste strawberry cakes, reminiscent of the renowned Milanese pasticceria Marchesi 1824. In contrast, some pieces adopt a sharper aesthetic. For example, Louis Vuittonâs Perception brooch, crafted from platinum and diamonds, features an angular design that cleverly mimics the shape of a triangle of toast. These innovative creations exemplify the delectable artistry found in the latest high-jewellery collections.
The artistic showcase continues with a variety of enchanting pieces, such as the Chanel gold, diamond, and beryl Tweed Byzance brooch. This piece, among others, captures the spirit of haute couture through the use of precious materials and intricate designs. The collection also features Louis Vuittonâs platinum and diamond Victoire ear cuff, along with the previously mentioned Perception brooch.
Additional highlights include a necklace from Lugano crafted with white and rose gold, diamonds, quartz, and conch pearls, as well as an array of brooches from top designers like Jean Schlumberger by Tiffany & Co, showcasing combinations of gold, platinum, and various diamonds. Boucheronâs white-gold and diamond Roseau brooch, as well as Dior Joaillerieâs pink-gold and diamond brooch featuring pink spinel, further illustrate the creativity and craftsmanship that define this season's high-jewellery displays.
To round out the collection, pieces from Graff and Van Cleef & Arpels highlight the use of yellow and white gold alongside a stunning array of colorful gemstones, including sapphires, emeralds, and tsavorite garnets. Chaumet contributes with transformable brooches that feature intricate designs using black opal and diamonds, while Chopard and Bvlgari showcase bold earrings featuring rubies, amethyst, and turquoise. Each piece tells a story, blending the worlds of art and luxury in a way that feels both delicious and decadent.
Photography for this collection was skillfully captured by Charly Gosp, with support from assistant Valentin Le Marcâh, digital operator Manon Clavelier, and set design assistant Caroline Garnier.