“God created the earth, but the Dutch created the Netherlands,” goes an old saying that humorously encapsulates the nation's enduring struggle against nature. For centuries, the Dutch have been engaged in a relentless battle with their geography, constructing dikes and draining marshlands to shape their unique landscape into what we know today as the Netherlands. This ongoing endeavor has led to the creation of polders, expansive stretches of land reclaimed from the North Sea.

Just a short trip down the Amstel River from the bustling heart of Amsterdam, characterized by its iconic canal houses and bicycle-friendly streets, lies the serene Duivendrechtse Polder. This picturesque area serves as a tranquil retreat from the urban hustle, featuring lush pastures where sheep have grazed peacefully since the 17th century. The scene is enchanting, with swallows darting overhead and the occasional tractor making its way along a narrow lane that hugs the riverbank. The only signs of modernity peek through at the edges, where vehicles zip around the ring road, overshadowed by the prominent silhouette of the Ajax football stadium.

Amidst this idyllic countryside setting stands Over-Amstel Boerderij, a newly established farmhouse restaurant and bed-and-breakfast (B&B). Owned by the South African couple Karen Roos and Koos Bekker, Over-Amstel offers a delightful blend of rustic charm and modern hospitality. Roos, a former editor for Elle Decoration South Africa, and Bekker, the billionaire chair of the technology conglomerate Naspers, which has a significant stake in Chinese tech giant Tencent and the food delivery service Just Eat, have created a unique destination that beckons visitors to explore the beauty of the Dutch countryside.

The couple began their hospitality journey in 2010 with the opening of Babylonstoren, a meticulously restored Cape Dutch farm located in South Africa’s Franschhoek wine valley. This was followed by the launch of The Newt in 2019, an expansive and whimsical working estate nestled in the Somerset countryside, which has since become a phenomenon in its own right, attracting over 250,000 visitors to its gardens last year alone. However, compared to its illustrious siblings, the charming Over-Amstel has kept a lower profile.

Arriving in late March, I did not come from Amsterdam; instead, I took a scenic ride from the quaint village of Ouderkerk aan de Amstel, where guests are ferried in a charming blue boat that meanders along the river, flanked by lush reed-lined banks. One of the houses we pass is home to Roos and Bekker, who settled here nearly 40 years ago to raise their family. During that time, Roos pursued her artistic dreams, while Bekker was busy expanding Naspers’ international operations.

Klaas Pieter, the chief executive of Over-Amstel, shares his own connections to the area, revealing that he grew up nearby and even worked as a gardener for Bekker during his youth. He reflects on the changes in the region, noting, “Back then, there were about double the farmers there are now.” He emphasizes the importance of preserving the local agricultural landscape and fostering cooperation with neighboring farmers to maintain the polder’s rich heritage.

In size and vision, Over-Amstel is a modest counterpart to The Newt, occupying a compact 60 acres compared to the Somerset estate’s expansive 2,000. As I stroll through the meticulously tended kitchen garden, Pieter enthusiastically describes his plans to cultivate beds filled with herbs, vegetables, and edible flowers, all woven around a central maze of espalier pear trees featuring varieties like the buttery Louise Bonne and juicy Clapp’s.

At the heart of Over-Amstel stands a beautifully restored longhouse, originally built in 1894. This historic structure now houses several inviting B&B rooms, with the first two opened in September and three more on the way. Adjacent to it, the thatched barn has been transformed into a farm-to-fork restaurant that embraces the essence of local dining. Behind these main buildings, five newly constructed barns, crafted with aged timber and weathered bricks, blend seamlessly with the traditional architecture.

Within these barns, a French baker crafts fresh croissants and sourdough for breakfast, while the creamery buzzes with activity as large vats churn milk sourced from local farms. Another barn houses the farm shop, which opened its doors in February and features an assortment of homemade jams, sauerkraut, and fruit syrups. Outside, hens roam freely in their beautifully designed coop, and plans are underway to introduce pigs and expand the gardens. A second boat is also in the works for summer excursions, adding to the vibrant atmosphere of this bustling farm.

With Roos and Bekker at the helm, the project's potential seems limitless. Their previous ventures have shown a tendency for organic growth and expansion—The Newt, for instance, has evolved from its original manor into a multifaceted estate that includes a nearby farmhouse, a railway station restaurant, and even a herd of buffalo. In December, a family trust connected to Bekker sold €156 million worth of Prosus shares to finance development projects across their various hotels, indicating their commitment to continued growth.

In addition to their Dutch endeavors, the couple has been busy expanding their horizons elsewhere. On the sun-kissed shores of Keurboomstrand in South Africa, they recently launched Blou, a cluster of exclusive beachside cottages available only to past guests of The Newt and Babylonstoren. Meanwhile, Babylonstoren has unveiled Soetmelksvlei, a former farmstead now serving as a hub for rural craft workshops. In St Ive, Cornwall, they established the immersive Story of Emily museum, celebrating the life of humanitarian Emily Hobhouse, who spent her childhood in the Hobhouse family home. Plans for further development include the addition of the eight-bedroom Yarlington Lodge in Somerset, set to open next spring.

The restaurant at Over-Amstel offers a beautifully curated menu that emphasizes local ingredients. Dishes feature fresh produce from the farm and surrounding area, such as whipped ricotta from the creamery, served on toast and topped with vibrant radish slices (€13.50), and hearty wild game merguez sausages from Amsterdam-based Wild van Wild, nestled in freshly baked brioche buns (€14.50). Chef Herb van Drongelen proudly emphasizes, “I try to source everything from within the Netherlands.” In a testament to the restaurant's commitment to local flavors, they even forego orange juice at breakfast in favor of the exquisite apple, pear, and plum juices that can be found locally.

Upstairs, the cozy B&B rooms are adorned with Roos’s artistic flair, marrying sleek modern furnishings with antique accents and playful reinterpretations of Dutch Master-style portraits created by the Anglo-Italian duo Young & Battaglia. The next set of three rooms, located on the lower floor, includes two with beautifully painted ceilings and plush four-poster beds, as well as Room Kelder, a converted cheese storage area that retains its original tiled counter, now transformed into a stylish bathroom sink.

The intimate scale of Over-Amstel fosters a welcoming and informal atmosphere. On my last evening, as the sun dipped low in the sky, the other guests had departed, leaving me as the sole overnight visitor. I wandered back downstairs for a glass of wine while Chef Herb and his team shared laughter and stories. They recounted the rare winters when the Amstel freezes over, allowing for ice-skating all the way into the city. In summer, the river beckons with the promise of refreshing swims from the small wooden jetties.

Currently, the restaurant's dinner service is limited to weekly themed nights focused on seasonal ingredients, such as the asparagus season or the first harvest of the garden. While the plan is to expand dinner offerings in the future, guests can still explore a variety of excellent dining options in nearby Ouderkerk or venture into Amsterdam for evening meals. Later, as I settled into my room with the river breeze flowing through the open windows, the gentle sounds of passing cyclists faded into the night, while rowers glided across the water like graceful water boatmen, casting a shimmering silver glow on the surface of the Amstel.

The following morning, I participated in a public workshop at the sparkling creamery, where I learned the intricate art of cheese-making under the guidance of cheesemaker Dewi van Lieshout. As I swirled and separated curds and whey, Dewi patiently shared her craft’s secrets—careful cutting, precise draining, and the importance of temperature control. At the end of the class, I was left with the promise of my cheese aging in Dewi's cave, ready to be shipped to me as a delightful reminder of the polder's rich traditions.

Over-Amstel represents a beautifully preserved slice of rural life, seamlessly blending the past with the present and offering guests an immersive experience in the heart of the Dutch countryside.

Details: Fiona Kerr was a guest of Over-Amstel Boerderij (over-amstel.com), where double rooms start from £410, including breakfast. Eurostar (eurostar.com) offers direct trains from London to Amsterdam starting at £39 one way or £229 for Business Premier, which includes lounge access and a gourmet four-course meal with wines and champagne.

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