Choosing a restaurant often requires answering a simple yet significant question: where to dine before catching up with friends or family? For those looking to indulge in delightful meals, London offers an array of options. Take, for instance, Andrew Edmunds in Soho, celebrated for its intimate candlelit ambiance and reliably delicious cuisine. Alternatively, for family gatherings that include toddlers and seniors alike, you might consider the iconic Greek Cypriot restaurant Lemonia in Primrose Hill, which welcomes children and honors the elderly. If you're craving classic French fare, you can't go wrong with Otto's on Gray's Inn Road, where diners can even enjoy tableside cooking techniques, such as flambing dishes and expertly prepared duck, complemented by a fine selection of Bordeaux wines.

However, for many who are set to enjoy a performance at the esteemed Royal Albert Hall, the search for a good meal often leads to a pressing question: where can we eat before the show starts? With the announcement of the 2025 Proms program just around the corner, this inquiry has taken on added urgency.

One answer that has emerged is Da Mario, a charming restaurant located on the corner of Gloucester Road, a mere nine-minute walk from the Royal Albert Hall. While it may not be hidden in the traditional sense, it often gets overshadowed by newer, trendier eateries that dominate the vibrant London dining scene. Established in the mid-1960s as one of the original branches of Pizza Express, Da Mario has a rich history tied to its founder, Mario Molino, who played a pivotal role in launching the high-street chain. In 1966, he transformed Da Mario into an independent establishment that offered not just pizzas but a broader Italian menu, although he wisely avoided confusing terms like secondi that might bewilder British diners.

Currently, the exterior of the Italianate building is draped in scaffolding, but it has been adorned with twinkling fairy lights, giving it a welcoming glow that resembles a lighthouse amidst the bustling city. The steps leading up to the restaurant proudly bear the name Princess Diana, a nod to her fondness for sneaking in for pizza with her children from nearby Kensington Palace. This connection to the late princess is subtly referenced throughout the restaurant, including a delightful painting depicting Mario alongside a red-frocked Diana, admiring a pizza. This is most certainly not a euphemism. The walls also showcase photographs of Diana during her 1987 trip to Saudi Arabia, alongside other personal memorabilia.

The main dining area is a captivating blend of kitsch and charm, with an ornate ham chiller cabinet topped by a religious icon corner featuring figures of Buddha, Jesus, and a Thai goddess, reflecting a diverse cultural homage. The windows are framed with faux greenery, and a large collage features cultural icons like Prince, Hendrix, Hepburn, and Einstein, adding to the restaurant's vibrant atmosphere. A grand chandelier and ceiling fans create a lively yet comfortable dining space, contributing to the quirky charm that patrons find utterly delightful.

When it comes to the menu, Da Mario excels in delivering comforting Italian dishes that satisfy every craving. The fennel salami, sliced paper-thin, is served at room temperature to allow the rich flavors to melt in your mouth. A cast-iron dish of melanzane alla parmigiana arrives, where gooey mozzarella and tender aubergine meld perfectly into a sumptuous dish served straight from the oven. The prawns, large and juicy, are served in a bubbling, garlic-infused oil that makes you immediately want to ask for breada request anticipated by the attentive staff, who swiftly deliver warm, springy focaccia to accompany the dish. As we indulge in our meal, an Italian couple at a nearby table devours a tricolore salad, pizza, rigatoni da Mario, and pappardelle rag with remarkable speed, their enthusiastic enjoyment of the food evident as they speak in their native tongue, oblivious to any need for English.

The pasta dishes, all priced under 20, reflect the restaurant's commitment to authenticity and quality. The spaghettini vongole is generously adorned with sweet clams, leaving a rich, buttery broth begging for leftover bread. The spaghetti aglio is prepared with finely sliced garlic, creating a delightful balance of flavors that is both simple and satisfying. The desserts follow suit, with a classic tiramisu that is so light it feels as if it could simply float away.

Downstairs, a quieter basement dining room offers a more subdued atmosphere for those seeking a tranquil meal. Meanwhile, the upstairs is alive with chatter and laughter, fueled by the friendly waitstaff who share anecdotes about the restaurants history. They joke about the photographs of various Saudi Arabian kings that adorn the walls, noting that they never dined at Da Mario, though Princess Diana certainly did. Mario Molino passed away over a decade ago, yet his legacy continues under the stewardship of his son, Marco, who adheres to the philosophy that if something works well, it need not be changed. As a beloved landmark from London's first postwar restaurant wave, Da Mario proves to be an enduring institution that does what it does exceptionally well. Given its proximity to the Royal Albert Hall, it's clear that a visit to Da Mario is just as justified outside of concert nights as it is on them.

Da Mario
15 Gloucester Road, London SW7 4PP
Website: jay.rayner@ft.com. Don't miss his weekend column in FT Edit, available free for the first 30 days and then just 4.99 a month for continued access.

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