Exploring Albania: A Journey of Discovery and Affordable Living
This article is brought to you by Business Insider. To delve deeper into this captivating narrative, consider subscribing to gain access to exclusive content.
This account is based on a candid conversation with Alicia Walter, 28, and Nathan Stark, 41, an adventurous couple who have embraced the thrill of travel. Over the years, they have explored 47 countries, and in 2023, they made the bold decision to relocate from San Diego, California, to Tirana, Albania. Together, they share their experiences and insights on their travel-advice blog, The Passport Couple.
Alicia: Together, my husband Nathan and I have traveled extensively across Central and South America, ventured into various parts of Africa, explored substantial areas of Europe, and roamed through Southeast and East Asia.
Despite visiting numerous destinations, they agree that Albania stands out as their favoritea hidden gem in the Balkans that remains relatively unexplored by mainstream tourism. Albania is absolutely stunning, still feeling unspoiled by the waves of tourists that flock to other popular European cities like Barcelona, Paris, London, Rome, and even Prague, Alicia explains. The food is among the best we've tasted, and the locals are wonderfully warm, making us feel like part of their family.
However, the country is not without its challenges. Alicia notes, Albania is still developing in the aftermath of its communist era, which came to an end in the 1990s. You can still see remnants of that time, such as bunkers scattered across cities. Additionally, a significant earthquake that struck near Tirana in 2019 resulted in substantial damage to homes, buildings, and businesses, necessitating ongoing reconstruction efforts throughout the capital.
This dynamic of change is what makes Albania so enchanting to us; every time we come back, it feels like we are discovering a new version of the place, Alicia shares.
Albania is blessed with remarkable natural beauty, boasting breathtaking landscapes and a favorable climate. Geographically, Albania lies just across the Adriatic Sea from Italy, sharing borders with Greece and Montenegro, Alicia elaborates. Despite its relatively small sizeroughly equivalent to Portugalyou can easily explore the entire country in a week or two.
The country enjoys a mild Mediterranean climate, with winters that are generally pleasant and summers that can be quite warm. However, the coastal areas provide a much more comfortable experience compared to the hotter inland regions.
According to Alicia, the Albanian Riviera, a stunning stretch of coastline along the Ionian Sea, is among the countrys most renowned features, offering crystal-clear azure waters that are hard to resist. We also had the chance to drive through Theth National Park in the fall, and the scenery was so picturesque, it felt like we were walking through the pages of a magazine, she recalls.
Beyond its stunning coastlines, Albania is also home to majestic mountains, including the Albanian Alps, Korab Mountains, and Tomorr Mountains. While ski resorts are notably absent, the mountains receive snowfall and offer excellent hiking opportunities.
In addition to its natural beauty, Albanias architectural landscape is diverse and rich in history. In towns such as Berat, famously known as the city of 1,000 windows, visitors can admire well-preserved Ottoman architecturecharacterized by white stone buildings topped with dark-tiled roofs and adorned with wooden-shuttered windows, some dating back nearly 2,000 years. Contrastingly, Tirana showcases a blend of architectural styles, featuring both communist-era structures and modern developments surrounded by ample green spaces.
Alicia and Nathan made the move to Tirana in February 2023 after three years of constant travel. We were living out of suitcases and longed to settle back in Europe, Alicia explains. We found a brand-new apartment complex where we reside in a 740-square-foot, fully furnished one-bedroom, one-bathroom unit for just 450 euros (approximately $520) per month. Our utilitiesincluding internet, water, and electricityadd another 100 euros (about $115) to our monthly expenses.
The cost of living in Albania is significantly lower than in the United States, Alicia continues. Prior to moving, we lived in San Diego, where we rented a smaller 630-square-foot apartment for $1,250 a month, which was the most affordable option we could find at the time.
The value for money here is simply incredible, Alicia expresses, especially when it comes to dining out. While international cuisine can be pricier, traditional Albanian meals are surprisingly budget-friendly. We often enjoy five or six shared dishes served family-style, accompanied by a liter of wine or a few beers, and we rarely pay more than $50 for an entire meal.
Nathan adds, Public transportation in Tirana is efficient and economical. Ive been pleasantly surprised to see a substantial number of electric-vehicle taxis, which have become the main form of rideshare transportation.
With the recent addition of Tirana to Google Maps, navigating the city has become considerably easier for newcomers. Riding a bus costs only 40 cents per trip, and we even took a shuttle to the port city of Durrs for about $10, Nathan shares. We can walk to most places and really dont need a car here.
Alicia comments on the walkability of their neighborhood, highlighting its bike lanes and sidewalks. Our daily needs are just a stones throw away, which is a refreshing change from our life in San Diego. Theres a grocery store down the street, a bakery where you can grab fresh bread for about a dollar, and a produce stand nearby for fresh fruits and vegetables.
We even have a bookstore that sells English-language books about a 25-minute walk from our apartment, she adds. While Tirana may not boast a vibrant nightlife scene, Alicia notes, To be fair, we arent nightlife enthusiasts ourselves.
Instead, various social customs enrich their experience. People in Albania value what are known as third spaces, she explains. Many families live together in multi-generational homes, and these third spaces often consist of shared green areas within apartment complexes, where everyone gathers, especially during sunset.
Theres a wonderful tradition called xhiro, which is like an evening social hour. During this time, folks head outside; kids play, parents converse, and neighbors reconnect. Cafs are an integral part of the culture, where people leisurely sip on espresso while enjoying a glass of water, often spending hours just relaxing and soaking in the ambiance.
Despite the advantages, Nathan acknowledges some challenges of life in Albania. The money we save on food and living expenses has remarkably changed our lives. It has allowed us to enhance our travel experiences and invest more in our travel business, he says. We left the US for this adventure primarily due to the high costs that made our dreams seem unattainable.
However, there are trade-offs, Nathan admits. For instance, We have to visit multiple places for our shopping needsone store for dry goods, a different market for fruits and veggies, and yet another store for bread. It can be a hassle when youre looking for convenience.
Additionally, shipping in Albania poses its own challenges. Package delivery is unreliable due to the lack of proper addressing; we often just use street names that everyone recognizes, he explains.
Nevertheless, the couple emphasizes the numerous benefits of living in Albania. One major advantage is the countrys visa policy, which offers US citizens a 365-day visa upon arrival. Our Schengen visa days also reset whenever we leave Albania for the EU, Alicia states. For example, we can take a budget flight to Rome for a weekend getaway, and upon our return, we receive a fresh start with more time to explore the EU.
Alicia adds, Furthermore, the locals have been exceptionally supportive and genuinely helpful as we acclimate to life here.
Ultimately, the couples dream is to purchase a home in Italy, but they acknowledge that several steps lie ahead before reaching that goal. For now, were just incredibly happy to be living in Albania, Alicia concludes.