Rolex watches are often cherished as family heirlooms, but many owners of vintage models are discovering that the luxury brand cannot guarantee servicing for watch models that were discontinued over 35 years ago. This revelation has left some families grappling with the sentimental value of their timepieces, while facing the reality that they may be unable to repair them.

Take, for instance, the story of a woman whose grandmother passed away last year, leaving behind a beautiful Rolex watch. This particular timepiece was a dainty ladies' model, featuring a distinctive scalloped gold band embellished with a circle of small diamonds around its round face. To many, it represents not just a luxurious accessory but a tangible connection to family history and tradition. The watch is a stunning example of timeless elegance that would not be out of place on a modern fashion influencer's wrist.

However, when her mother attempted to have the watch repaired at a certified Rolex retailer, she was met with disappointment. The retailer informed her that they could not service vintage Rolex watches, particularly those that had been sidelined for decades. Seeking a second opinion, she visited another jeweler, only to receive a similar response. The jeweler expressed doubt about their ability to repair such an old watch and suggested that some people choose to wear their non-functional watches as bracelets instead.

Rolex is a giant in the luxury watch market, with experts estimating that the company produces and sells over one million watches each year. In 2023 alone, Rolex achieved an unprecedented $10 billion in sales, capturing 30% of the total market share, as reported by Morgan Stanley and the Swiss firm LuxeConsult. Rolex watches are often viewed as investment pieces or cherished family heirlooms, with buyers justifying the high costs associated with them by believing they will appreciate in value over time or be passed down to future generations. For instance, Homeland Security Secretary Kristi Noem was noted for wearing a $50,000 Rolex during a visit to a maximum-security prison in El Salvador, indicating that she intended to eventually pass the watch down to her children.

Given Rolex's reputation as a purveyor of luxury and quality, the suggestion that the company would not service a vintage watch was surprising. The retailer also advised against seeking repairs from non-Rolex authorized shops, further complicating the situation.

Greg Petronzi, a seasoned watchmaker and expert in vintage Rolex repairs, shared that it is increasingly common for owners of vintage Rolex watches to be turned away at service centers. He lamented the situation, stating, Its really a shame because these are still magnificent watches. Theyre collectible. Theyre important.

Rolex has phased out servicing many vintage models, despite their historical significance and contribution to the brand's legacy, which includes symbols of wealth, innovation, and quality. Upon contacting Rolex directly, a spokesperson reaffirmed the company's policy regarding vintage watches, indicating that there is no definitive period on how long a Rolex can function. Yet, they clarified that parts and labor support is ensured for every watch for at least 35 years following its withdrawal from the catalog.

This means that if a watch has been discontinued for over 35 years, the chances of obtaining parts for repair are minimal, leaving owners with limited options.

Challenges in Servicing Vintage Rolex Watches

Eric Wind, a reputable vintage watch dealer, estimated that the grandmother's watch was likely manufactured in the 1970s. According to Wind, it has become apparent among watch enthusiasts that Rolex has gradually stopped providing service for many of its vintage models from the 1970s and earlier in recent years. This trend can be attributed to the fact that the company no longer produces the necessary parts for these older models.

Petronzi, who has become known as the go-to repair guy for vintage Rolex collectors, explained that for independent shops that do offer vintage services, acquiring replacement parts often requires searching the secondhand market for components that are no longer in production. In some cases, this pursuit can involve significant costs and effort, such as Petronzis recent investment of $15,000 in a specialized tool necessary for restoring movement in an antique watch.

Michael Woods, a horologist with a rich background, including years spent as a head watchmaker with Rolex, mentioned the strict standards that Rolex service centers must adhere to. If a service center cannot guarantee that they can maintain these standardsensuring a watch remains functional, reliable, and safethey may decline to accept the repair. Rolex operates through a network of official jewelers and boutiques rather than having its own storefronts. Woods also noted that while the company aims for a uniform standard across service centers, there can be variances in practice. For example, while he was based in Melbourne, Australia, he continued to service certain vintage models, such as Military Submariners, which other centers had deemed too risky to work on.

While Rolex has a dedicated Restoration Atelier in Geneva that focuses on rare and historically significant pieces, the general consensus is that vintage watches, especially those manufactured before 1980, often face rejection from service centers.

Comparatively, other luxury watch brands like Patek Philippe claim they will service any watch made in their workshops dating back to 1839, with pieces over 35 years old requiring attention at their restoration atelier in Geneva.

Options for Repairing Old Rolex Watches

For vintage Rolex enthusiasts, there is hope. Independent watchmakers like Petronzi and Woods specialize in servicing vintage models, although it is important to note that restoration can be both costly and time-consuming. In some instances, the expenses associated with repairs may exceed the watch's market value, which raises questions about the worthiness of restoration.

These experts advise individuals looking to repair their vintage Rolexes to conduct comprehensive research to find qualified watchmakers who have a specialization in vintage models, as opposed to consulting just any jeweler. The American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute, a trade association in the United States, can serve as a helpful resource in this search.

Wind, who formerly held a senior position at Christie's auction house, emphasized the importance of communicating preferences clearly to the watchmaker. For collectors, preserving the originality of a vintage watch is often paramount, as modifications made during repairssuch as substituting original parts or polishing casescan drastically affect the watch's value. Wind recounted a specific case where a watch worth $1 million lost significant value after being serviced, dropping to $30,000 due to changes made during the repair process.

Woods echoed this sentiment, suggesting that customers should familiarize themselves with their watches before pursuing servicing to ensure they are comfortable with the potential for parts replacement.

Industry experts agree that Rolex has historically been a forward-looking brand with a focus on innovation. When it comes to servicing vintage pieces, they prioritize functionality over preserving original parts, which can sometimes lead to conflicts with collectors who treasure authenticity. Some observers have noted that Rolex has begun to embrace its storied history more than in years past. For instance, the company published its first authorized book in October, detailing the history of its iconic Oyster Perpetual Submariner model. Additionally, Rolex launched the Certified Pre-Owned program in 2022, allowing authorized retailers to sell certified authentic secondhand Rolex watches that are at least three years old.

Rolex as an Investment

Despite skepticism surrounding the idea of watches as investment vehicles, industry experts maintain that Rolex watches can still be considered valuable assets and heirlooms to be passed down through generations. These timepieces are recognized for their durability and craftsmanship, and while Rolex may not assist with repairs, the community of collectors remains steadfast. It appears that independent watchmakers will continue to cater to the demand for vintage repair services, especially for rare and sought-after models.

Petronzi, who balances his career as a licensed psychologist and a watchmaker, suggested that Rolexs stance on servicing older watches might inadvertently increase their desirability. He noted, When Rolex says, Oh, forget this watch, were not even going to service it, theres a part of our psyche that says, You know what? That just makes me want this more.

Reflecting on the grandmother's watch, Wind estimated it was likely crafted in the New York City area during the 1970s, aligning with family memories of its purchase around 1973. Due to its probable origins not being Swiss-made, the watch may not hold substantial value in the eyes of collectors, with an estimated worth slightly exceeding its gold weightroughly around $4,000.

Yet, its true value transcends mere monetary considerations. To the family, this watch symbolizes a cherished legacy, representing the love of a grandmother who wore it for half a century through family milestones. As the saying goes, when you don a beautiful watch, how often do you truly check the time?

Even so, inquiries have already begun regarding where her mother might find a skilled craftsman willing to repair the beloved vintage Rolex.