The perfect “croqueta”
A simple plate of croquetas is a classic dish in practically all Spanish tapas bars and restaurants, and a staple for most home cooks throughout this wonderful country. They are an essential for any serious cook. For me the perfect Spanish croquetas have a crisp, evenly coated exterior with a beautifully soft, creamy interior. The flavours can be anything from a classic jamon serrano, chicken, salt cod, or prawns, the most important thing is that they are made with a little love! I think the best croquetas I’ve ever tasted were from a restaurant called Echaurren Tradacion in the beautiful village of Ezcaray. If you’re lucky enough to find yourself in the Rioja region of Spain anytime soon, this charming hotel is well worth visiting. It has two restaurants, including the very highly regarded two Michelin-starred, El Portal run by my friend Francis Paniego. This delightful auberge has been run by the same family for well over 100 years, and its origins come from traditional “comida casera”, meaning great homemade food. The famous croqueta recipe at Echaurren was handed down from Francis’s mother Marisa Sánchez, who was highly regarded as one of the best cooks in Spain. I believe their secret is to use equal amounts of milk and chicken stock when making the base. Unlike the British potato croquettes, Spain’s croquetas are made with bechamel sauce, which ensures a perfectly silky, smooth interior. You start off with a roux which is basically a mixture of melted butter and flour that binds and thickens the sauce. Begin by melting the butter gently - don't over-heat it or let it brown, as this will affect the colour and flavour of the sauce. As soon as the butter melts, add the flour and, over a medium heat and using a small pointed wooden spoon, stir quite vigorously to make a smooth, glossy paste. Now begin adding the warm infused milk a little at a time and stir again vigorously. Then, when this milk is incorporated, continue incorporating each bit of liquid before you add the next. When about half the milk is in, I prefer to switch to a balloon whisk and start adding larger amounts of milk, but always whisking briskly. Your reward will be a smooth, glossy, creamy sauce. Now turn the heat down to its lowest setting and let the sauce cook for 10-15 minutes, whisking from time to time as a Béchamel is easily burned. Before chilling, the mixture should coat the back of the spoon; it’ll thicken up in the fridge. The classic shape is oval, but if you’re making a large batch, round balls will be quicker to mass-produce. Dip your bechamel balls into seasoned flour first, so the rest of the coatings stick. Next, dip in beaten eggs and, finally, roll in breadcrumbs or panko. Cook in a deep-fat fryer or saucepan (one-third full) by heating light olive oil or sunflower oil to around180C. and fry the croquetas in small batches for two minutes until golden-brown and crisp. Making the perfect croqueta is a labour of love but they are definitely worth all the effort! Croquetas de sobrasada y manchego. Sobrasada & machego cheese croquetas Croquetas de sobrasada y manchego Ingredients: 120g of sobrasada, at room temperature For the Bechemel: 60g of unsalted butter 2 tbsp olive oil 1 small onion, finely chopped 6 black peppercorns 25g of cured manchego cheese, finely grated 2tbsp Parsley, finely chopped 2 large eggs 150g of breadcrumbs (panko if possible) 60g seasoned flour Bring the milk to the boil with the bay leaf and the peppercorns. Remove from the heat and leave to infuse for 10 minutes before straining. Then melt the butter and olive oil in a medium saucepan, stir in the flour, and cook over a low heat for 3-4 minutes. When smooth, start adding some of the strained milk. Stir until smooth, and then add more milk until the sauce is thickened. Cook over a gentle heat for 10-15 minutes and add the sobrasada and grated manchego, whisking regularly until you have a smooth, thick béchamel sauce. Stir in the chopped parsley, season with salt and black pepper then transfer to a shallow container and cover with a piece of cling film to prevent a skin forming. Allow to cool to room temperature then chill for a minimum of 4 hours, or overnight. Once the béchamel has chilled and set, lightly beat the eggs in a shallow bowl. Place the breadcrumbs in a second bowl and add the seasoned flour to a third shallow bowl. Dust your hands with some flour and scoop out a heaped tablespoon of the firm béchamel. Roll into a ball then dip into the egg followed by the breadcrumbs. Repeat until all the mixture is dipped and rolled, continuing to dust your hands and the balls with flour to prevent sticking. Chill for at least 20 minutes. In batches of 5 or 6, shallow fry the croquettes in a large frying pan, turning regularly until crisp and golden brown. Alternatively, you can heat oil to 180C in a large saucepan or deep fryer and fry for 3–4 minutes. Drain well on kitchen paper and serve piping hot with aioli.